I was able to conduct some research, and if the clicking occurs regularly, it is either the power supply or the HDMI handshake. If it only occurs with the analog output, it is more likely a ground loop or a faulty extractor. Unfortunately, I do not have any empirical data on which of these solutions might help. I have listed the following possibilities: Set the extractor to PCM / 2CH. Set the HDMI source to Stereo / PCM. Use a different suitable power supply. Do not power the extractor via the TV's USB port. Replace both HDMI cables individually. Reconnect the HDMI and audio cables. Test headphones directly on the extractor. Test the optical and analog audio outputs separately. Connect all devices to the same power strip. Test a ground loop isolator for 3.5mm audio. Disconnect all devices completely from the power supply. Power-on sequence: Screen → Extractor → HDMI source. If the clicking persists, test a different extractor.
No, a correctly built HDMI audio extractor must not feed any voltage back into the HDMI.
If your laptop has died as a result, there may be a defect or faulty design.
Hello, according to the technical specifications, the device offers: Special Features: CEC Pass-through. I bought the device because the audio output of the Raspberry Pi 3 is not usable. The Lindy takes the picture signal via HDMI and routes it directly to the TV. The audio signal (also via HDMI) is extracted by Lindy and routed to the stereo system. The volume is controlled by the amplifier.