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I have tried to sleeve my cables myself, the result is...

Kevin Hofer
25.1.2019
Translation: machine translated

Sleeved cables look damn smart. But they are also very expensive. To save money, I tried it myself. This is the story of my failure.

Slowly I push the cable through the paracord. It. Goes. Not. Forwards. I move the cable what feels like a centimetre per minute. My fingers hurt. My whole body is tense. Sweat is running down the back of my neck. "Move forwards, you fucking cable!" It doesn't want to. No, sleeving is not for me. But I was fully motivated at the start.

The supreme discipline of modding

I look to the right while gaming and see the inside of my PC. I like my colour-coordinated components. What bothers me are the plain black power cables. I've already seen videos of modders sleeving their cables themselves. I want to try that too.

Sleeving refers to the process in which the fat cables of the power supply unit are stripped of their sheathing and put into individual fabric sleeves. The work is described as tedious and time-consuming. Of course, if I really want to do everything myself, I first have to measure, cut, crimp and crimp cables. And that for every single cable for the mainboard, GPU and all other connections. That takes time.

Is cable sleeving the supreme discipline of case modding? Probably not, bending hard tubes or modelling case components requires a more artistic approach. But sleeving is definitely the most time-consuming.

No wonder more and more modders today are turning to pre-sleeved cables or having them made. The selection of different colours is now relatively large. However, they still don't come close to the possibilities of DIY - not even in terms of price.

Almost limitless possibilities

Most modders use parachute lines - known as paracord - as sleeves. These are made of nylon and were first used by the US military during the Second World War. Today, the lines are also very popular with hobbyists and campers. Fun fact: Paracord was even used to repair the Hubble Space Telescope.

Type III paracord - also known as 550 paracord - is used for modding internal PC power cords. The number 550 refers to the minimum breaking load of 550 pounds - the equivalent of 249 kilograms. The cord is available in various plain, camouflage, multi and neon colours as well as reflective and glow-in-the-dark.

My project

In addition to paracord, I also need tools, cables, pins and heat-shrink tubing to create the perfect solution. However, the acquisition costs for this exceed the price of ready-made sleeved cables. I therefore opt for the budget option and sleeve the existing cables from my power supply unit.

So all I have to do is remove the pins from the plugs, sleeve the cables and reinsert them. All I need to buy is the paracord and heat-shrink tubing to fix the sleeves. I don't need a sleeving tool. I want to remove the pins with makeshift tools in the form of Bostich clips.

Done before I've really started?

Unfortunately, I come across a capacitor under the sleeve. Can I simply remove the capacitor? How do the manufacturers of sleeved cables do this? If I were to do everything myself now, I wouldn't have noticed the capacitor at all. Stress level 50.

New hope with the PCI-E cable?

But I don't want to give up easily. After all, I haven't done any sleeving yet. I'll try the PCI-E cable. It only has eight cables. As it turns out when I undo the existing sleeve, there is also a capacitor in between. In addition, there are further cables going from the first connector to a second connector. I decide to simply disconnect these and only sleeve the primary cable.

Now we can finally get started. As I'm very lazy and have already had to overcome a few hurdles, I decide to only remove the pins on the GPU side. I fix the invisible end of the power supply to the cable with heat-shrink tubing. I label the cables at the end of the power supply unit so that I know which hole they belong in.

I remove the pins with two Bostich clips. I insert them to the left and right of the connector. The pins have barbs on both sides, which are pressed in like this. This should allow them to be removed - at least in theory. Inserting a clip is still relatively easy for me. However, this pushes the pin to the other side and the space for the second clip becomes very tight. It's an absolute fiddle. After a few attempts, I always get the second clip in.

A tool wouldn't have been a bad idea. I kept slipping when pushing the staples in and the Bostich staples drilled into my thumb with relish. After four pins, my thumb is sore and any pressure hurts. My stress level rises again slightly to 65.

Pulling the pins out proves to be more difficult. It takes a surprising amount of force and, after all, I don't want to rip the cable out. The sore thumb doesn't make it any easier. Eventually I manage to remove all the cables from the plug. With a throbbing thumb, I finally start sleeving. The anticipation of this brings my stress level back down to the good old 42.

Cable in a sleeve

The actual work hasn't even started yet and I've already had numerous problems. Now everything just has to go smoothly. I measure the paracord by rolling it up next to the cable. I cut the paracord about five centimetres before the PSU plug. Now I just have to pull the yarn out of the sleeve. It's really easy for a change. Stress level 20, now it can only be good.

I start with the outer cables on the left and right, which I want to sleeve with white paracord. I tape the pins with insulating tape so that the barbs don't accidentally get tangled in the sleeve. Then I can pull them over the cable centimetre by centimetre. My thumbs hurt, but I'm pleased that everything is going so well.

Once the paracord is over, I cut two heat-shrink tubes, one for each end. I make the tube a little longer on the PSU side, as you can't see it. On the mainboard side, I want to use a technique where the shrink tubing is not or only very slightly visible. I start there because I have to work very precisely.

I'm at the end

Now I either have to abandon my plan of making everything as simple as possible and do everything myself: So measure, cut, crimp and crimp the cable. Or I attach the paracord so that the heat-shrink tubing is visible. I opt for the second option because it's starting to stink.

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